Took a break…

So the build has slowed down some. I’ve been going at it pretty good since February when the car was delivered. Lately, it’s become pretty frustrating. A lot of small details that take time, which is no big deal, but almost everything I work on requires me to go order some small part like an o-ring or a clamp. So I have to put that aside and work on something else until that job needs a new piece.

I took a break for a while. Haven’t done hardly anything for the last 2 weeks. I think about it every day, but just left it sit.

Yesterday I got out and opened up the garage. I installed some o-rings in the heater system, which should have that all sealed up now. Installed a weather pack 2-wire connector to the electric fan. Then I decided to tackle the fuel injection.

The FiTech fuel injection is pretty simple, but there’s still about 6 wires that have to be integrated to the Ron Francis wiring harness as supplied by Factory 5. We have 1 wire that goes the coil, 2 wires to the ignition switch, and additional wire connections to the electric fuel pump, electric fan, the display harness and the oxygen sensor. The O2 sensor is just laying out in the open right now because Georgie at GAS-N still has not gotten me a set of headers that will work.

Oh, and the FiTech wire connectors would not fit through the firewall grommet, so I had to de-pin the 2 connectors, route the wires through, then rebuild the connectors properly. That took about 2 hours for something that should have been so simple… understand the frustration?

So finally everything was together. I connected the battery and voila! The fuel injection system is alive. I can hear the fuel pump run and the injectors click a few times as it’s trying to prime the system.

It’s alive! No, the FiTech display will not be remaining there, that’s just for doing the setup. Another big step accomplished!

Last Saturday I was invited to an “on the lawn” car show. Lots of very nice exotics. One that showed up is an Aston Martin DB-11. Really sweet machine but the thing that really jumped at me was the paint. Found out it was 2017 Aston Martin Magnetic Silver, and man do I like it. I had planned on a dark metallic grey, and I think I found what I want. Need to do more research.


On Sunday, I met some friends with the Capital Area Cobra Club for breakfast. Took the Triumph Rocket 3 to stretch its legs a bit. Got a nice picture of it next to a 428FE / 4 speed / pin drive Everett-Morrison machine.

So I’m back to working on it this week and feeling better. Look for more posts soon.


More slow, small details

Hi Readers.

Like the title for today says… more slow, small details. I’ve reached a point in the Boss 427 build that is becoming a bit frustrating. Lots of small things that take time, usually more time than expected.  Remember, almost everything I’m doing is custom… there’s no laid out plan or directions for so many small things. You have to think about it, decide how you want it to work, figure out what you need to do it, order parts / tools / supplies, try it, realize why it wont work or how it could be better, order more parts / tools / supplies, try it again…

I’ve started wiring the engine sensors that will be used for the gauges and the fuel injection computer. One is the coolant temperature system. Now here I have both a gauge and need an input to the fuel injection system, so there are 2 sensors. The small block / 351 Fords have always had 2 places to place coolant temp sensors, but I’m using 1 of those for my heater and 1 for my FiTech fuel injection. Nowhere for the sensor to the Speedhut gauge.  Research found a heater hose adapter made by Autometer that incorporates a brass tube that fits into a cut section of heater hose and has a port to install a temp sensor. Since the 351 Ford uses constantly circulating coolant in the heater system (more on that later), this can be used for coolant temp sensing. Cool!

At the same time, I’m figuring out the heater system. I’m using an electric heater control valve from Old Air Products, so that has to be plumbed in between the intake manifold, the heater and the water pump return. Found some Dayco 5/8″ heater hoses that were about 4 ft long with a 90* elbow at the end and about 7″ beyond the elbow. Bought the pieces and parts I needed, got it all together a few days later.

First thing was figuring out where to put the heater valve and how to securely mount it. Looked all over, tried a few things, then McMaster Carr to the rescue. I bought 2 padded U-bolts, 1″ wide on the inside that fit right around the tubes on the valve.

Drilled and mounted the U-bolts to the top of the passenger footbox. I loaded the locknuts up with silicone adhesive to prevent any leaks.

So this valve… why and what does it do? The heater system in the Boss is pretty simple… hot water from the engine circulates through a small radiator, and a fan blows air across the radiator, creating hot air that is pumped into the cabin. But if you turn off the fan, circulating water and ambient moving air will still move hot air into the cabin. So this valve takes the hot water and turns it back into the engine when not needed. When it is desired, just turn the heater knob to control how much hot water is allowed to the radiator, controlling how much heat you get.

Got the valve installed, started installing all the 5/8″ hoses with some nice heavy stainless steel clamps. Last hose goes back to the water pump return and… 3/4″. Sigh. Another piece to order and wait. Adapted the valve output from 5/8 to 3/4″, then finally on the water pump.

Back to that coolant temp sensor. Its a 1/8″NPT thread, so it fits right into the Autometer adapter… right? Not quite. The Speedhut temp sensor is a bit longer than the depth of the adapter… threads wont even reach. After spending a few hours researching other temp sensors that may be shorter and still have the same resistance (no luck), I looked at the Speedhut directions to get a phone number to call. Corner of my eye, I catch the words “… trim length of sensor to this point only.” What?!?! Trimming the sensor?

Yep. There’s a notch in the sensor that is the limit for trimming if needed. I need. 😉 So into the vice it goes and I go at the brass tip with a pipe cutter. BTW, that cutter was my Dad’s and I believe it’s older than I am.

I initially trimmed it short of the notch, just to be safe, but it wasnt enough and I had to go all the way to the notch. The finished sensor…

…and installed in the Autometer heater hose adapter.

Now some bright engineer types out there may take note that there’s no way the sensor will work… there’s no ground circuit. There is a threaded hole for an 8-32 screw in the side of the adapter, but I dont need it because the Speedhut sensors are 2 contact… ground is made through the wiring harness and chassis ground.

Some other things that went a bit better… got the oil pressure and oil temperature sensors installed with the help of some 1/2 to 1/8 NPT brass adapters.

Oil temp…

and oil pressure…

Ran, harnessed and secured the wiring along the engine to get safely back to the dash.

You can see how a small item like the heater can turn into a 2 week project. While waiting on parts to arrive, I end up working on things like the headers (still do not have a good set), dash wiring (removing the harness wires for the gauges and installing the Speedhut wires) and a myriad of other small things. So I’m progressing, just not at a breakneck pace.

New update soon, I promise. Believe it or not, I can feel it all getting closer to first engine start.

Thanks for reading.


Few things have happened

I have fixed a small coolant leak at the heater select valve, and replaced the power steering pump with a unit that is setup and dyno’d for flow and pressure to match the Fox Mustang steering rack. Also has a reservoir mounted right to the side of the pump for excellent fluid supply.



  • 壯陽藥的選擇技巧


即使兩次服用的劑量合起來不超過20mg的安全劑量,大部分陽痿患者每次服用 樂威壯都會想到服用10毫克效果夠不夠?需不需要增加到20毫克?吃最大劑量會不會損害人體健康?